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A dryer that suddenly stops heating or will not turn on at all may have a blown thermal fuse. This small, one‑time safety device protects the dryer from overheating by cutting power to the heating element or entire machine when temperatures exceed safe limits. Once it trips, the fuse cannot be reset and must be replaced. Thermal fuses typically fail due to blocked vents, lint buildup, or airflow restrictions. Because they are non‑resettable, understanding symptoms and diagnosing why it blew are just as important as the replacement itself. Replacing the fuse restores operation, but the underlying cause—restricted airflow, failed cycling thermostat, or clogged duct—must be corrected to prevent repeat failures. Knowing how to identify, access, and replace the fuse ensures safe dryer function and prevents fire hazards.
Symptoms of a blown thermal fuse include a dryer that powers on but produces no heat, or in some models, a dryer that will not start at all. Electric dryers may tumble with no heat, while gas dryers may run without igniting. Some units appear completely dead if the fuse is wired in series with line power. Another clue is a dryer that shut off mid‑cycle and never restarted. Attempting multiple cycles yields the same cold or dead result. If airflow is blocked, you may notice excessive heat on the cabinet or a burning smell before the fuse blows. Unlike thermostats, thermal fuses cannot reset once tripped—repeated cold operation is a hallmark. Technicians often confirm by testing continuity with a multimeter across the fuse. No continuity = blown fuse. Error codes may appear depending on brand, often pointing to overheating, airflow restriction, or safety shutdown.
Quick checks before replacement include inspecting and cleaning the lint filter, vent duct, and blower housing. Disconnect power and verify the vent path is clear to outside. Measure continuity across the fuse with a multimeter—if open, it must be replaced. Access panels usually expose the fuse near the blower housing or heater assembly. Remove screws, swap the fuse with an OEM replacement, and reassemble. Always correct airflow issues first—straighten ducts, shorten runs, and clean vent hoods. If thermostats or cycling controls are faulty, replace them together with the fuse. Do not bypass the fuse, as it is a critical fire safety device. After replacement, run the dryer empty on high heat to confirm normal heating and airflow before resuming laundry loads.
Error codes tied to thermal fuse failure vary. Whirlpool/Maytag often show F31/F32 for motor issues that arise if the fuse opens the circuit. Some Samsung/LG units trigger HE, tS, or TE codes when heating circuits do not energize. Frigidaire/Electrolux can display E64/E68 for heating element faults caused by open fuses. GE may show E61/E62 for heater relay faults. Bosch models sometimes stop with generic heating error codes or no code at all, leaving only cold operation. Certain dryers simply go dead with no display, which indirectly indicates the fuse has blown. Although codes differ, their root meaning is the same: the heating or motor circuit was interrupted by an open safety device, usually the thermal fuse.
Call a professional if the dryer remains dead after fuse replacement, or if the fuse blows repeatedly within days. Persistent failures suggest hidden blockages, failed thermostats, or motor/blower issues that require deeper diagnostics. If error codes like HE, E64, or F31 accompany symptoms, advanced testing of circuits, relays, and sensors is necessary. Professionals can measure vent airflow with anemometers, test cycling thermostats under load, inspect blower wheels, and replace motor assemblies if overheating persists. If the dryer is stacked, under cabinetry, or gas‑fired, pro service ensures safe disassembly and reconnection. Expert repair eliminates guesswork, ensures correct OEM part replacement, restores heating, and prevents dangerous overheating.