Dryer Repair — No Heat, No Problem

Dryers take more abuse than almost any appliance: high heat, hard vibration, and heavy electrical load every cycle. So when a dryer tumbles but never gets hot—or heats, then quits—there’s always a specific reason. We don’t guess. We start with targeted fault detection so you get a fast, accurate fix that lasts.

What “No Heat” Usually Means (Electric vs. Gas)

Electric dryers (240V supply):

• Open heating element — coil breaks and the drum spins cold.
• Blown thermal fuse — airflow problem or overheat event opened the safety link.
• Failed high-limit or cycling thermostat — stuck open (no heat) or stuck closed (overheat/short cycle).
• Relay/board fault — motor runs but heater relay never sends power.
• Half-tripped breaker — motor runs on 120V; heater never gets 240V.

Gas dryers:

• Igniter glows, no flame — weak igniter, bad gas valve coils, or faulty flame sensor.
• Lights, then goes cold — coils failing hot or restricted airflow tripping the high limit.
• Short, hot bursts — vent restriction overheating the burner compartment.

Airflow is the multiplier. A crushed hose, lint-packed vent, or stuck exterior hood overheats the system and takes out fuses, thermostats, coils, and elements. Fix the heat source and the airflow or the failure returns.

Symptom → Likely Cause (read the signals)

• Drum turns, air is cold from start to finish
  Electric: open element, blown thermal fuse, half-tripped breaker.
  Gas: dead igniter/coil/sensor, no gas to burner.
• Heats for a minute, then quits until cool
  Airflow restriction tripping the high-limit; gas coils failing hot; cycling thermostat drift.
• Takes forever to dry / towels never finish
  Weak heat or poor airflow: vent restriction, stuck hood, lint-packed lint screen (fabric softener film), or partially open element.
• Stops mid-cycle
  Overheat trip (airflow), failing motor drawing high current, weak door switch, control relay fault.
• Hot or “electrical” smell
  Scorched lint at the element/burner, slipping belt on idler, overheated terminal block/cord. Power off and book service.

Our Method: Observe → Hypothesize → Test → Fix → Verify

Observe. We run a short, live heat cycle: time-to-heat, exhaust temperature, blower tone, relay clicks, ignition sequence (gas), and airflow at the hood.

Hypothesize. Map the behavior to the platform and likely suspects:

• Electric: element → fuse/limits → cycling control → relay/board → supply (240V).
• Gas: igniter → flame sensor → valve coils → burner air mix → limits.
• Both: vent path first—no good repair survives bad airflow.

Test.

• Airflow/back-pressure: measure at the lint screen and exterior hood; inspect hose run and the hood flap.
• Heat source: element continuity and insulation to chassis (electric); igniter current draw, sensor switching, and coil function (gas).
• Safety chain: thermal fuse, high-limit, cycling thermostat.
• Controls/power: heater relay output, terminal block condition, full 240V supply (electric).

Fix.

• Electric: replace element, thermal fuse/limits, cycling thermostat, or repair board/relay as proven.
• Gas: replace igniter, coils, or flame sensor; clean and align burner/orifice; correct burner airflow.
• Airflow: clean lint paths, correct hose geometry, replace crushed foil with rigid/semirigid where allowed, free the exterior hood.
• Wear items (if noisy/dragging): rollers, idler, belt, blower wheel—because drag raises temps and stresses the system.

Verify. Proof run with instruments: proper time-to-heat, stable cycling temperatures, strong exterior airflow, no tripping limits, no smells, and clean current draw. We leave you numbers, not guesses.

Quick Checks You Can Try (Safe & Simple)

• Reset the double-pole breaker fully off → on (electric dryers need 240V; a half trip runs the motor but not the heater).
• Clean the lint screen and look through it against light—if it’s hazy, wash with mild soap (softener film blocks airflow).
• Check the exterior hood during a cycle—flap should open wide with a strong, steady exhaust.
• Try a small test load on “Timed Dry / High.” If heat is intermittent or the exterior airflow is weak, stop and book service.
• If you smell hot plastic or gas: power off, stop using, and follow the safety note below.

Gas Safety (Read This)

If you smell gas, do not switch anything on or try to relight. Leave the area and call your utility’s emergency line (Con Edison / National Grid) first. Once they clear the site as safe, we’ll service the dryer.

What We Bring (So It’s Usually One Visit)

• Electric heat: OEM elements, thermal fuses, high-limit and cycling thermostats, heater relays/terminal kits.
• Gas heat: OEM igniters, valve coils, flame sensors, burner gaskets, and alignment tools.
• Airflow & wear: rollers, idlers, belts, blower wheels, lint-path tools; manometer/amp clamp/IR for proof.
• Protection: non-marring pads, containment for tight laundry closets, and interface-safe diagnostics (no false board resets).

Why This Approach Works

Dryers fail for a short list of reasons: no power to the heater, a dead heat source, a tripped safety, bad control output, or blocked airflow. By proving airflow and temperature cycling under load, then checking the heat source and safety chain in order, we fix the actual cause and prevent rapid re-failure. The result is real heat restored, shorter cycles, lower energy use, and less stress on motors, boards, and wiring.

Brand Nuances, NYC Venting Reality, and Fixes That Actually Last

Brand & Platform Patterns We Watch For

Different dryers fail in different ways. We tune diagnostics to the platform so you don’t pay for parts roulette.

Samsung / LG (modern sensor-dry families)

• Sensitive to airflow quality; will “hunt” or extend cycles when exhaust temps swing.
• Common field findings: heating coils cracked at the insulator, idler pulleys glazing, and moisture sensor contamination that confuses auto-dry.
• What we do: verify exhaust temp curve under load, replace the bad actor (coil/coils or idler), and clean/ohm-test moisture bars so auto-dry ends when clothes are actually dry.

Whirlpool / Maytag / KitchenAid (U.S. workhorses)

• Terminal blocks and heater cans are robust, but long foil vents cook thermal fuses.
• Common findings: half-tripped breakers leaving only 120V to the motor, loose cord lugs that run hot, and exterior hoods stuck shut.
• What we do: restore full 240V, re-terminate overheated lugs, swap the fuse and clear the cause, then confirm a clean cycling pattern.

GE

• Solid motors and wheels; issues often trace to door switches and idler/belt paths after relocations.
• What we do: correct belt routing/tension, replace a sloppy switch, then verify drum RPM vs. heat duty cycle so fabrics don’t scorch.

Electrolux / Frigidaire

• Gentle on fabrics, picky about vent back-pressure.
• What we do: measure static at the lint screen and hood, service the blower path, and confirm even cycling on a mixed load.

Bosch / Miele compact & ventless (condensing / heat-pump)

• No exterior vent; performance depends on clean heat-exchanger and airflow path.
• Common findings: lint mats on the exchanger fins and fan bearings singing.
• What we do: deep-clean the exchanger channel, service fans, calibrate sensor-dry logic, and document temp-humidity trend so you know it’s back to spec.

Venting & Airflow: Where NYC Installs Go Wrong

Most “no-heat” returns to one of these three realities:

1. Crushed hose behind the unit
   Tight laundry closets push the dryer back onto a soft foil accordion. The bend looks small; the heater sees it as a wall.
2. Long, sagging runs with elbows
   Sag pockets collect lint and condensate, then feed it back to the heater can. Any high-limit you install will blow again.
3. Exterior hood that never opens fully
   Paint, corrosion, or lint binds the flapper. The dryer thinks the load is still wet because exhaust temps swing.

Our fix path: replace flimsy foil with semi-rigid where allowed, shorten and straighten the run, secure a proper radius at the back, and restore a free-moving hood. Then we prove it with measured back-pressure and steady temperature cycling under load.

Electric Supply & Heating Chain (why “tumbles but no heat” is common)

Electric dryers need both legs of 120V to make 240V for the heater. A weak cord lug or a half-tripped breaker leaves the drum running with no heat path. Add any airflow restriction and you’ll also pop the thermal fuse. We verify full supply at the terminal block, correct overheated terminations, and confirm clean relay output to the heater before calling the job done.

Gas Ignition & Combustion (when it glows but won’t light)

Glow without flame points to weak igniters, tired valve coils, or an air mix problem. Short burns followed by silence usually mean overheat trip from restricted airflow. We check igniter current draw, flame sensor switching, coil behavior hot vs. cold, and burner cleanliness. If the cabinet’s starved for air (tight closet), we correct clearances so the fix lasts.

Moisture Sensing, Not Magic

Auto-dry ends when the control “sees” low conductivity across sensor bars—unless those bars are waxed in fabric-softener film. Then cycles drag on forever (or end too soon). We clean and test the bars, confirm harness integrity, and demonstrate normal termination on a mixed load so you don’t live on Timed Dry.

What “Fixed Right” Looks Like (proof you can see)

• Stable temperature curve: heats to target, cycles evenly, no runaway peaks, no early dropouts.
• Strong, steady exhaust at the hood; flap opens fully.
• Clean current draw: heater on/off duty matches the cycle; motor amperage is steady (no dragging).
• No odors, no hot terminal block, and no limit trips during an extended test.
• Auto-dry ends correctly on a mixed load without cooking the light items.

We hand you a plain-English summary: what failed, what caused it, what we replaced or corrected, and the readings we used to prove it.

Repair vs. Replace (practical rules that respect your time)

• Repair makes sense when: the cabinet and drum are sound, parts are available, the failure is single-path (element/coil/fuse/switch/relay), and you plan to keep the unit.
• Replace is smarter when: the drum or cabinet is heat-warped, multiple subsystems are failing together, critical parts are discontinued, or a new platform (e.g., heat-pump) will clearly save money long-term.
• We’ll tell you which side you’re on before spending into a dead end.

Access & Building Notes (so the first visit is the last)

• Clear 3–4 ft in front; for stacked sets, tell us if there’s a lip or shelf that blocks a clean pull.
• Note elevator windows, COI needs, and loading dock rules; we align to your building’s schedule.
• If the vent exits a shared shaft or odd location, a 10-second phone video helps us bring the right adapters and tools.

Aftercare That Actually Prevents Comebacks

• Lint screen wash (not just wipe) every few weeks if you use softeners—film blocks airflow.
• Vent check at the hood monthly: flap opens wide, strong push of warm air.
• Shorten the run at your next renovation; fewer elbows = happier heater.
• Don’t overstuff: airflow needs space around fabric to carry moisture out.
• Leave the door ajar for a few minutes post-cycle in tight closets to bleed heat off electronics.

What We Stock (to finish in one trip whenever possible)

• Electric: OEM elements, thermal fuses, high-limit and cycling thermostats, heater relays, terminal kits.
• Gas: OEM igniters, valve coils, flame sensors, burner gaskets/orifices.
• Airflow & wear: rollers, idlers, belts, blower wheels, hood flappers, semi-rigid duct sections, clamps.
• Diagnostics & protection: clamp meters, manometers, IR thermometers, non-marring lifts, floor protection, interface-safe tools.

The NYC Edge (why proximity matters)

We dispatch by skill and distance, not just queue order. That means a tech who sees your exact complaint weekly—and can arrive with the right parts—lands at your door first. You won’t recount your story twice; your notes, model, and building constraints travel with the job.

Ready When You Are

Text or call (332) 333-1709 with your brand + model and a quick note about the symptom (e.g., “heats 60 sec then cold,” “tumbles cold,” “hood flap barely opens”). We’ll bring the exact kit to restore real heat, fast cycles, and a vent path that keeps the fix holding for years.