


Why choose a local, independent team
No call-center, no upsells — just precise diagnostics and clean, condo-friendly work in Brooklyn & Manhattan.
Burning smell, visible sparks, or repeated breaker trips → switch the breaker OFF and do not restart.
Gas odor → shut off gas and ventilate; call a pro.
If performance doesn’t improve, a component, sensor, or airflow fault is likely — schedule a diagnostic.
Model/serial intake → electrical & mechanical tests (loads, sensors, boards) → water/gas & airflow checks → clear written estimate → same-visit repair when parts are stocked; otherwise fast sourcing with ETA.
Share brand/model and symptoms (a photo of the rating plate helps). Clear the front of the unit; for built-ins we protect floors, counters, and cabinetry.
Brooklyn & Manhattan (below 96th St). Call/Text 332-333-1709 or Book Online — pick 9–11, 11–1, 1–3, or 3–5.
GE Dishwasher Error 815 – drain pump fault
GE Dishwasher Error 817 – water inlet valve error
GE Dishwasher Error 818 – heater relay fault
GE Washer Error 3 – lid lock not detected
GE Washer Error 5 – fill valve timeout
GE Washer Error 7 – drain pump blocked
GE Washer Error 26 – pressure sensor out of range
GE Washer Error 28 – motor/inverter error
GE Washer Error 31 – out-of-balance load
GE Dryer Error 30 – heater relay fault (no heat)
GE Dryer Error 31 – moisture sensor open/short
GE Dryer Error 64 – thermal cut-off open
GE Refrigerator Error 88 – communication/control fault
GE Refrigerator Error 33 – defrost heater open
GE Refrigerator Error 44 – evaporator fan fault
GE Oven Error F2 – oven sensor out of range
GE Oven Error F3 – probe shorted
GE Oven Error F7 – keypad/control fault
GE Cooktop Error F9 – induction module fault
GE Cooktop Error F2 – input voltage error
GE Microwave Error F1 – magnetron/overheat fault
GE Microwave Error F2 – door switch not detected
GE Hood Error F1 – blower/light driver failure
GE Ice Maker Error 1 – harvest cycle fault
Symptoms: Standing water after cycle, gurgling, “not draining” alerts, wet dishes.
Likely causes: Food debris in impeller, blocked check valve/air gap, kinked/low drain hose.
Safe DIY checks: Clean filter/sump, verify disposal knockout removed, inspect hose loop under sink, breaker reset 5–10 min.
Do not: Run with standing water or force the door to drain.
Our diagnostic & fix: Voltage/ohms test at pump, remove/clear or replace pump, verify check valve/air gap and hose routing. $99 diagnostic credited.
Prevention: Scrape plates, monthly dishwasher cleaner, keep a proper high loop.
Symptoms: No response, random beeps/lights, buttons work intermittently, child-lock icon stuck.
Likely causes: Failed UI board/touchpad, wet ribbon, cracked fascia, low DC from main control.
Safe DIY checks: Breaker reset, disable child lock, dry door area if recently leaked.
Our diagnostic & fix: UI matrix test, DC supply check from main board, replace/seal UI, update settings if applicable. 180-day parts & labor warranty.
Symptoms: Dishes cold/wet, sanitize won’t reach temp, drying fan never runs; heat-related error codes.
Likely causes: Heater relay welded open on control, failed heater, hi-limit thermostat trip.
Safe DIY checks: Confirm rinse aid filled and “heated dry” enabled.
Our diagnostic & fix: Measure element resistance/amps, inspect relay output, replace control or element; verify hi-limit and thermistor.
Symptoms: Won’t start or spin, “lid”/“door” errors, clicking at latch.
Likely causes: Broken latch, failed lock coil/switch, misaligned strike.
Safe DIY checks: Remove debris at latch area, close firmly, power reset.
Our diagnostic & fix: Test lock voltage/ohms, replace latch/strike, firmware recalibration if model supports it.
Symptoms: Water left in tub, error at drain step, humming noise.
Likely causes: Coins/socks in pump, clogged filter, jammed impeller.
Safe DIY checks: Clean pump filter (front-access models), check hose height/kinks.
Our diagnostic & fix: Bench test pump, clear lines, replace pump/seal as needed; confirm pressure switch reading.
Symptoms: No tumble/spin, brief jerk then stop, motor or “speed” errors.
Likely causes: Inverter board failure, open stator winding, hall sensor fault.
Safe DIY checks: Ensure load not oversized; breaker reset.
Our diagnostic & fix: Ohm stator, check tach/hall feedback, scope/measure inverter outputs; replace inverter or motor assembly.
Symptoms: Random resets, won’t advance cycles, dead UI with power present.
Likely causes: Low voltage rail, corroded connectors, failed main control.
Safe DIY checks: Remove surge protectors; plug direct; hard reset.
Our diagnostic & fix: Supply/ground integrity checks, harness inspection, replace/program control; run full service diagnostics.
Symptoms: Runs but no heat (electric) or won’t run at all on some models.
Likely causes: Overheat from clogged vent, failed cycling thermostat.
Safe DIY checks: Clean lint screen, inspect exterior vent airflow.
Our diagnostic & fix: Continuity test of fuse/thermostats, replace fuse and correct airflow cause; measure temps at vent.
Symptoms: Drum turns, air stays cool; trips breaker when heat calls.
Likely causes: Open heater coil, grounded element, failed relay.
Safe DIY checks: Try “air fluff” to confirm airflow.
Our diagnostic & fix: Element resistance/ground test, replace heater, inspect hi-limit/cycling stats and relay contacts.
Symptoms: Motor hums, no tumble; or very fast spin noise then stop.
Likely causes: Broken belt, seized idler pulley, worn rollers.
Safe DIY checks: Spin drum by hand—should move freely.
Our diagnostic & fix: Replace belt and idler, lube/replace rollers, vacuum lint from cabinet; verify motor amps.
Symptoms: Freezer cold, fresh-food warm; fan squeal or stops; uneven frost.
Likely causes: Iced fan shroud, failed defrost, door gasket leak, blocked return air.
Safe DIY checks: Ensure doors seal; don’t chisel ice.
Our diagnostic & fix: Defrost heater/thermostat/control tests, replace fan if noisy/binding, reseal gaskets, restore airflow paths.
Symptoms: Long run times, weak cooling, partial frost pattern, warm spots in fridge.
Likely causes: Micro-leak at evaporator/cap tube, compressor inefficiency.
Safety: Sealed-system work requires EPA-certified service.
Our diagnostic & fix: UV dye/electronic leak detection, nitrogen pressure and vacuum tests; repair leak, replace drier, recharge; compressor replacement if needed.
Symptoms: Fans/compressor won’t start, random reboots, dead display with lights on.
Likely causes: Failed low-voltage supply, relay faults, corrupt logic.
Safe DIY checks: Dedicated outlet (no power strips), hard reset.
Our diagnostic & fix: Verify inputs (thermistors/door), command outputs (fans/comp), replace/program control; update jumpers where applicable.
Symptoms: Temps read fine but food too warm/cold, short cycling.
Likely causes: Aged sensor off-curve, poor harness contact.
Safe DIY checks: None beyond power reset.
Our diagnostic & fix: Ohm test vs temperature chart, replace thermistor(s), reseat connectors, recalibrate if supported.
Symptoms: FF section freezing produce or won’t cool while freezer OK.
Likely causes: Stuck/broken damper door or actuator, iced return.
Safe DIY checks: Make sure nothing blocks interior vents.
Our diagnostic & fix: Command damper in diagnostics, replace damper assembly, clear ice and restore airflow balance.
Symptoms: Bakes 25–75°F off setpoint, inconsistent results.
Likely causes: Aging temp sensor (RTD) out of spec, loose harness.
Safe DIY checks: Try user offset calibration ±15–35°F if model allows.
Our diagnostic & fix: Measure RTD resistance vs chart, replace sensor, verify relay operation; perform calibration bake.
Symptoms: No bake/broil, relays click but no heat, error codes.
Likely causes: Relay failure, low-voltage supply, burnt traces.
Safe DIY checks: Breaker reset only.
Our diagnostic & fix: Load/relay output tests, replace programmed control; inspect elements and wiring before power-up.
Symptoms: Won’t self-clean, “door/lock” errors, buzzing at lock.
Likely causes: Failed lock motor/switch, bent latch.
Safe DIY checks: Cancel cycle and cool fully; don’t force door.
Our diagnostic & fix: Command lock in diagnostics, replace motor/switch/latch, align strike; clear errors.
Symptoms: No spark or constant clicking, some burners light others don’t.
Likely causes: Bad spark module, wet or cracked igniters, shorted switches.
Safe DIY checks: Dry caps/grates after cleanings, reseat burner heads.
Our diagnostic & fix: Check 120V supply and switch signals, replace spark module/igniters; verify grounding.
Symptoms: Delayed ignition, low flame, flame goes out on simmer.
Likely causes: Sticky valve, pressure/regulator issue, clogged orifice.
Safety: If you smell gas, shut off gas and ventilate.
Our diagnostic & fix: Manometer pressure test, clean/replace valve or orifice, set regulator and air shutters correctly.
Symptoms: Runs but doesn’t heat, buzzing, burning smell.
Likely causes: Failed magnetron, HV diode/capacitor issues, poor cooling.
Safety: High voltage present even unplugged — do not open.
Our diagnostic & fix: HV circuit tests, replace magnetron and related HV parts as needed; verify cooling airflow.
Symptoms: Won’t start, starts then stops, trips breaker on door close.
Likely causes: Misaligned/broken door switches or mounts.
Safe DIY checks: Ensure door closes square; don’t slam.
Our diagnostic & fix: Test switch continuity and timing, replace/realign mounts and switches; confirm interlock timing.
Symptoms: Rattle, grinding, or vibration; weak capture.
Likely causes: Grease-loaded wheel, bent blades, failing bearings, loose mounts.
Safe DIY checks: Clean/replace filters; check that baffles are seated.
Our diagnostic & fix: Remove and clean blower, balance/replace wheel or motor, tighten isolation mounts; verify duct alignment.
Symptoms: Heaters/fans/compressors don’t start or stay stuck on; intermittent operation.
Likely causes: Worn contacts, overheated solder joints, over-current from failing loads.
Safe DIY checks: None beyond power reset.
Our diagnostic & fix: Measure load draw, confirm control output, replace control board (OEM); address root cause (shorted element, seized motor) to prevent repeat.
Q: Why is my GE fridge not making ice?A: Check water filter, inlet valve, and for frozen fill tubes.Q: My GE oven temperature seems off—what now?A: Run calibration/offset and verify element continuity.Q: Are GE parts easy to find?A: Yes—most wear items are widely available at reasonable cost.
Repair is often the smart choice: pumps, valves, fans, igniters, gaskets, elements, and locks are serviceable and cost‑effective. Replace when sealed‑system refrigerator failures are confirmed on older units, cabinets are damaged, or repeated control board failures exceed the appliance’s remaining value.
GE platforms combine inverter compressors (on many modern fridges), dual‑evaporator airflow, NTC thermistors, adaptive defrost, and relay/triac heater control. Ranges rely on spark modules and flame sensing; proper grounding and electrode gap are essential. Dishwashers use flow meters, pressure/level sensors, and leak trays; washers employ pressure sensors for water level and tach feedback for spin. Dryers use thermostats, thermal fuses, and belt/idler systems. Typical checks: heater 20–40 Ω, fan/pump continuity, thermistor 5–10 kΩ @ 25 °C, and stable supply voltage under load; inspect control boards for heat‑stressed solder joints.
Book a professional for sealed‑system faults (no‑cool with hot compressor), persistent error codes after resets, gas odors, repeated ignition failures, tripping breakers, or burning smells. Certified techs run diagnostic modes, verify gas pressure, measure loads, and handle refrigerants safely.
See the full catalog of our services—organized by brand and by appliance—right here.