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Appliance Repair Terms Glossary

Plain-English definitions for common appliance repair terms with “what it does,” typical symptoms, and safe first checks.

Overview, how to use, quick translations
Appliance Repair Terms Glossary (Plain English)

Most appliance problems are described in plain language (“won’t start,” “not draining,” “keeps clicking”). Technicians and manuals use part names (“control board,” “thermistor,” “drain pump”). This page translates the common technician terms into normal language, plus what symptoms usually look like and what you can safely check first.

How to use this page

Use this page when you see a term in an error code article, a parts diagram, or a service quote and want to understand what it means.

  • Read the 1-line definition
  • Use the “Fast answers” bullets to match the term to your symptom
  • If you need help, tell us the symptom first, then the term second (example: “not draining, maybe drain pump”)
Quick symptom to term translations

If you are trying to describe a problem, these pairings usually get you to the right category quickly.

  • “Won’t start” often points to: door switch or latch, thermal fuse, power supply, control board, user interface
  • “Not draining” often points to: drain pump, drain hose, filter, air gap, check valve, pressure switch
  • “Not heating” often points to: heating element, igniter (gas), thermal fuse, thermostat, relay/control board
  • “Keeps clicking” often points to: igniter/spark module (gas), relay chatter (control issue), fan hitting ice (fridge)
  • “Leaking” often points to: door gasket, inlet valve, hose, pump seal, tub seal, dispenser, drain path restriction
  • “Loud noise” often points to: bearings, blower wheel, fan, motor coupler, shock absorbers, loose pulley/idler
  • “Ice maker not making ice” often points to: water inlet valve, filter restriction, fill tube freeze, ice maker module, freezer temperature
Controls and electronics

These are the “brains,” buttons, displays, and power switching parts.

Control board (main PCB)

The main computer that reads sensors and switches components on and off.

Fast answers:

  • Also called: main board, electronic control board, main PCB
  • Typical appliances: washer, dryer, dishwasher, fridge, oven
  • Looks like: random behavior, cycles stopping, no response, wrong temperatures, intermittent faults
  • First safe checks: hard power reset (breaker off 5 minutes), inspect for burnt smell at the board area, confirm outlet power
  • Service-level: board diagnosis requires live voltage testing and interpreting sensor inputs
User interface (UI) board

The buttons and display electronics you touch.

Fast answers:

  • Also called: display board, console board, touch panel board
  • Looks like: dead display, unresponsive buttons, beeping with no control, wrong indicators
  • First safe checks: verify child lock/control lock, power reset, check ribbon cable seating if accessible without disassembly
  • Service-level: UI issues often overlap with the main board or harness problems
Relay

An electrically controlled switch that powers heaters, motors, or compressors.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: clicking on/off, heater not powering, compressor not starting, intermittent operation
  • First safe checks: listen for click when the appliance should heat/run; power reset
  • Service-level: relays are tested by measuring coil control and output voltage under load
Triac

A solid-state electronic switch (often used for motors, fans, valves).

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: motor runs when it shouldn’t, won’t run at all, speed problems, overheating control board
  • First safe checks: power reset
  • Service-level: requires board-level diagnosis
Harness / wiring harness

A bundled set of wires and connectors between components.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: intermittent faults, “works when moved,” burning/overheating at a connector, repeated error codes
  • First safe checks: look for obvious loose plugs if a service panel is designed for user access
  • Service-level: continuity and load testing; damaged connectors often need proper repair or replacement
Connector (plug) / terminal

The physical electrical connection point.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: heat damage, melting plastic, arcing, intermittent power to a component
  • First safe checks: power off before touching anything; visual inspection only
  • Service-level: terminal repair must be done to correct spec to avoid repeat failures
Inverter board (variable-speed drive)

Electronics that run a compressor or motor at variable speed.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: modern refrigerators, some washers
  • Looks like: compressor hums then stops, no cooling with power present, unusual buzzing, error codes related to compressor speed
  • First safe checks: clean condenser, verify fans are running, power reset
  • Service-level: sealed-system and inverter diagnosis are specialized (do not “parts-cannon”)
Power supply / line filter

The part that conditions incoming power and protects electronics.

Fast answers:

  • Also called: EMI filter, noise filter
  • Looks like: completely dead appliance, no lights, no response, sometimes burnt smell near cord entry
  • First safe checks: confirm outlet power, breaker, GFCI, and plug fit
  • Service-level: involves line voltage testing
Thermal fuse (one-time safety cutoff)

A safety device that permanently opens if overheating occurs.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: dryers, microwaves, some dishwashers and ranges
  • Looks like: no heat (or totally dead), especially after overheating or airflow restriction
  • First safe checks: for dryers, check vent restriction and lint buildup before replacing anything
  • Service-level: fuse replacement without fixing the root cause often fails again
Sensors and safety devices

These measure temperature, water level, door status, and other safety conditions.

Thermistor (temperature sensor)

A sensor that changes resistance with temperature.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: fridges, dishwashers, dryers, washers, ovens
  • Looks like: wrong temperatures, overheating/underheating, long cycle times, temperature-related error codes
  • First safe checks: ensure vents/airflow are not blocked; power reset
  • Service-level: requires resistance checks at known temperatures and wiring verification
Thermostat (temperature switch)

A device that opens/closes at set temperatures (some are resettable, some are one-time).

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: dryers, ovens, refrigerators (older), dishwashers
  • Looks like: no heat, overheats then shuts down, won’t maintain temp
  • First safe checks: airflow and venting checks (dryers), verify door seals (fridges)
  • Service-level: testing is done with continuity and temperature conditions
High-limit thermostat

A safety thermostat that trips when temperatures go too high.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: heat works briefly then stops, repeated shutdowns, error codes on heating
  • First safe checks: check for blocked vents/filters and lint buildup
  • Service-level: replacing without fixing airflow or cycling issues repeats the fault
Door switch / door interlock

A safety switch that confirms the door is closed and locked.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: washers, dryers, microwaves
  • Looks like: won’t start, “door” error, starts then stops, won’t spin
  • First safe checks: close firmly, remove obstruction, inspect latch area for debris
  • Service-level: switch and lock mechanisms are tested electrically and mechanically
Latch (mechanical catch)

The physical part that engages the door switch/lock.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: door won’t close, must be slammed, intermittent door errors
  • First safe checks: inspect for cracked plastic or misalignment; do not force
  • Service-level: alignment or replacement may be needed
Float switch (overflow protection)

Detects high water in a base pan (common on dishwashers).

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: dishwasher won’t run, drains continuously, “leak” behavior without visible tub overflow
  • First safe checks: check for water in the base pan if accessible; dry-out may temporarily reset
  • Service-level: the source of the leak must be found and corrected
Pressure switch (water level sensing)

Detects water level via air pressure in a small tube.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: washers, some dishwashers
  • Looks like: overfilling, underfilling, not draining correctly, water-level errors
  • First safe checks: check for kinked hoses and obvious blockage in the air dome area if accessible
  • Service-level: tube and switch testing
Flow meter

Measures incoming water volume.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: dishwashers (common)
  • Looks like: fill errors, slow fill, poor wash due to low fill
  • First safe checks: check inlet valve supply, shutoff valve fully open, clean supply screen where accessible
  • Service-level: electrical and mechanical verification
Limit switch

A position switch used to confirm a moving part reached a point.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: dryers, ranges, refrigerators (icemakers), dishwashers
  • Looks like: mechanism stops mid-travel, won’t advance cycles, repeated “position” errors
  • First safe checks: power reset
  • Service-level: requires access and testing
Water supply, fill, drain, and pumps

These control water coming in, moving through, and leaving the appliance.

Inlet valve (water valve)

An electrically controlled valve that fills the appliance.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: washers, dishwashers, refrigerators/ice makers
  • Looks like: no fill, slow fill, water hammer, leaking into unit when off
  • First safe checks: confirm shutoff valve is fully open, check supply line kinks, clean inlet screen if accessible
  • Service-level: valve coil and supply pressure checks
Drain pump

Pumps dirty water out to the drain.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: washers, dishwashers
  • Looks like: standing water, “drain” errors, humming with no drainage, slow drain
  • First safe checks: clean filter/trap (if your model has user-cleanable access), inspect drain hose for kinks
  • Service-level: pump impeller obstruction vs pump failure requires disassembly
Circulation pump (wash pump)

Moves water through spray arms (dishwashers) or recirculation paths.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: dishwashers
  • Looks like: fills and drains but poor cleaning, no spray sound, stops mid-cycle, motor error codes
  • First safe checks: clean filters and spray arms
  • Service-level: pump motor and capacitor/board drive checks
Check valve

Prevents drained water from flowing back into the appliance.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: water returns after draining, bad odors, intermittent drainage
  • First safe checks: filter and drain path cleaning
  • Service-level: may require access to sump/drain assembly
Air gap (countertop drain fitting)

A plumbing device that prevents backflow from sink drain into dishwasher.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: dishwashers (common in some installs)
  • Looks like: dishwasher won’t drain, water leaks out of the air gap cap, gurgling
  • First safe checks: clean air gap cap and hose; check for blockage
  • Service-level: verify drain loop and plumbing configuration
Sump (dishwasher base reservoir)

Where water collects before being pumped and filtered.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: gritty debris, repeated drain issues, poor wash performance
  • First safe checks: filter cleaning; avoid pushing debris deeper
  • Service-level: sump clogs can mimic pump failures
Filter (lint or debris filter)

Captures lint/food/debris before it blocks pumps.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: dryers (lint), dishwashers (food/debris), washers (coin trap)
  • Looks like: slow draining, poor performance, odors, overheating (dryers)
  • First safe checks: clean filter and surrounding seat thoroughly
  • Service-level: hidden clogs downstream still possible
Heating and ignition (ovens, ranges, dryers)

These create heat and keep it controlled.

Heating element

An electric heater (coil) that generates heat.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: electric ovens, electric dryers, dishwashers (booster heater)
  • Looks like: no heat, weak heat, long dry times, breaker trips
  • First safe checks: for dryers, verify vent airflow; for ovens, confirm correct bake mode and no “Sabbath/lock” settings
  • Service-level: element continuity and voltage checks under load
Igniter (glow bar)

A ceramic heater that ignites gas in many gas ovens.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: gas ovens
  • Looks like: oven won’t heat, igniter glows but no flame, long preheat, intermittent ignition
  • First safe checks: confirm gas supply is on; do not repeatedly cycle power rapidly
  • Service-level: weak igniters can glow but still fail; current draw testing is often required
Spark igniter (spark electrode)

Makes the clicking spark for gas burners.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: gas cooktops/ranges
  • Looks like: constant clicking, delayed ignition, clicking when burner is off (moisture or contamination)
  • First safe checks: dry the burner area, clean and dry caps and electrodes, ensure caps sit correctly
  • Service-level: spark module or switch harness issues may require diagnosis
Spark module

Creates high-voltage sparks for gas burners.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: multiple burners clicking together, continuous clicking, no spark on any burner
  • First safe checks: dry moisture; check for stuck knob/switch
  • Service-level: electrical isolation tests and replacement if confirmed
Gas valve (oven safety valve)

Controls gas flow to the oven burner.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: igniter works but no flame (after igniter is confirmed strong), intermittent bake ignition
  • First safe checks: confirm gas supply, avoid DIY valve work
  • Service-level: live gas and electrical testing required
Gas valve coils (dryer, some appliances)

Electromagnets that open the gas valve when heated.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: gas dryers
  • Looks like: heats once then stops heating, cycles with no heat after warm-up
  • First safe checks: verify vent airflow and lint buildup first
  • Service-level: coil testing and proper replacement
Flame sensor

Confirms flame is present; stops gas if flame is not detected.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: gas dryers, furnaces (concept also similar)
  • Looks like: burner lights briefly then shuts off, repeated retries
  • First safe checks: do not bypass safety devices
  • Service-level: cleaning/testing to spec
Cooling, defrost, and ice making (refrigerators)

These parts move cold air and prevent ice buildup where it shouldn’t be.

Compressor

The “heart” of the sealed refrigeration system.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: no cooling, warm fridge/freezer, compressor hot, clicking start attempts
  • First safe checks: clean condenser coils, ensure fans run, verify door seals
  • Service-level: sealed-system diagnosis is specialized; avoid guessing parts
Condenser coils

Where heat is rejected (often underneath or behind the fridge).

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: poor cooling, long run times, hot cabinet sides
  • First safe checks: vacuum/brush coils and ensure airflow around the fridge
  • Service-level: if clean coils don’t help, deeper diagnosis needed
Condenser fan

Moves air across condenser coils.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: warm fridge, hot compressor area, fan not running when compressor runs
  • First safe checks: ensure nothing is blocking the fan; clean dust buildup
  • Service-level: motor and control tests
Evaporator fan

Moves cold air from the freezer evaporator into compartments.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: freezer cold but fridge warm, weak airflow, noises, frost buildup behind panel
  • First safe checks: listen for fan; check for packed ice
  • Service-level: fan failures can mimic defrost problems
Defrost heater

Melts frost off the evaporator.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: heavy frost/ice, airflow blocked, fridge warms over days, fan noise hitting ice
  • First safe checks: do not chip ice with sharp tools
  • Service-level: heater, thermostat, and control logic must be tested together
Defrost thermostat (bimetal)

A safety/control switch that participates in defrost control.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: repeated icing, inconsistent defrost behavior
  • First safe checks: none beyond basic airflow/door seal checks
  • Service-level: continuity testing at temperature conditions
Defrost timer (older units)

A mechanical/electronic timer that cycles into defrost.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: stuck in defrost (no cooling) or never defrosts (icing)
  • First safe checks: power reset
  • Service-level: verification against compressor and heater operation
Fill tube (ice maker)

The tube that delivers water to the ice maker mold.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: no ice, small cubes, fill tube frozen
  • First safe checks: replace filter if flow is weak; check freezer temp is correct
  • Service-level: valve and temperature/defrost conditions
Ice maker module

The mechanism that harvests and cycles ice.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: no harvest, jammed cubes, partial cycles, intermittent production
  • First safe checks: ensure ice maker is turned on, bin not overpacked, freezer temp appropriate
  • Service-level: module and water supply diagnosis
Motors, belts, airflow, and moving parts

These create motion and airflow. Many noises live here.

Drive motor

The motor that turns the drum, agitator, or blower.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: washers, dryers, dishwashers
  • Looks like: humming, no spin/tumble, intermittent movement, error codes
  • First safe checks: don’t overload; power reset; confirm door/lid is closed
  • Service-level: motor windings, capacitor, and control drive must be verified
Start capacitor / run capacitor

Helps motors start and run.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: motor hums but won’t start, weak startup, intermittent operation
  • First safe checks: power reset
  • Service-level: capacitor testing and proper matching replacement
Belt (drive belt)

Transfers motor motion to the drum.

Fast answers:

  • Typical appliances: dryers, many washers
  • Looks like: motor runs but drum doesn’t, burning rubber smell, squealing
  • First safe checks: stop using if you smell burning
  • Service-level: belt replacement and pulley alignment
Idler pulley / tensioner

Keeps proper belt tension.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: squealing, thumping, belt slipping, intermittent drum movement
  • First safe checks: none
  • Service-level: replacement is common during belt service
Rollers / drum support wheels (dryer)

Support the dryer drum as it rotates.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: rumbling, thumping, rhythmic noise
  • First safe checks: none
  • Service-level: often replaced as a set
Blower wheel (dryer)

Moves air through the dryer and vent.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: poor drying with heat present, rattling, airflow noise changes
  • First safe checks: clean lint path and verify vent airflow
  • Service-level: broken or loose blower requires disassembly
Bearings (washer/dryer)

Allow the drum to rotate smoothly.

Fast answers:

  • Looks like: loud roaring, grinding, metal-on-metal sounds, leaks (washers)
  • First safe checks: stop use if severe grinding or leaking
  • Service-level: major repair; cost/feasibility depends on design
Common “sounds like the same thing” terms
Common “sounds like the same thing” terms

These pairs get confused constantly. Use this to pick the right word when you describe a problem.

  • Thermistor vs thermostat: thermistor “reports temperature,” thermostat “switches at a limit”
  • Drain pump vs circulation pump: drain pump “pushes water out,” circulation pump “moves water during washing”
  • UI board vs control board: UI “buttons/display,” control board “brains that switch power”
  • Igniter vs spark: igniter “glows in oven,” spark “clicks on cooktop”
  • Inverter vs compressor: inverter “ makes the compressor run correctly; the compressor is the sealed-system motor
If you want fast help, describe it like this
If you want fast help, describe it like this

This format gives the cleanest diagnostic starting point.

  • Appliance type and brand (example: “Bosch dishwasher”)
  • Symptom in one sentence (example: “fills, then stops and beeps”)
  • Any visible code or blinking pattern (example: “E:15”)
  • What you already tried (example: “power reset, cleaned filter”)
  • Any relevant constraints (example: “built-in unit, tight cutout, can’t pull far”)
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