Protect Cabinets Around a Dishwasher: Steam & Swelling Prevention

Quick answers: appliance replacement fees (NYC budgeting)

What’s the “all-in” replacement fee formula?

• New appliance price + NYC sales tax (usually on the product) + delivery + haul-away + installation labor + small parts (hoses, cord, fittings).
• Most “surprise” costs come from access (stairs, tight built-ins) and hookup changes (plumbing/electrical/gas).

What adds cost the fastest?

• Stairs carry, narrow hallways, no elevator, strict building COI rules.
• Any change to plumbing, electrical (new outlet/circuit), gas line work, or vent ducting.
• Built-in/panel-ready appliances that require cabinet trimming or custom panels.

What’s the typical haul-away/disposal fee?

• Common range: $100–$250.
• Higher if stairs, oversized units, or building rules restrict removal times.

What’s a typical “basic installation labor” range?

• If hookups already exist and the unit is standard: ~$100–$300.
• If modifications are needed (new lines, new circuit, ductwork): can jump to $650–$2,500+.

Dishwasher replacement: what do people usually pay?

• Midrange “all-in” often lands around $1.2k–$1.9k, depending on install complexity.
• Biggest drivers: shutoff valve condition, drain routing, hardwired electrical changes, leak damage.

Refrigerator replacement: what’s the real cost range?

• “Swap” install is usually cheaper; ice-maker/water line work adds cost.
• All-in varies widely, but a typical midrange swap often ends up $2.0k–$3.0k+ after tax/fees.

Range replacement: gas vs electric—what changes?

• Gas: cost spikes with shutoff/connector work, gas safety issues, conversions, or building requirements.
• Electric: cost spikes with 240V outlet/circuit issues, incorrect receptacle, or breaker/panel limits.

Washer/dryer: what’s the main risk to budget for?

• If hookups already exist: installation is often moderate.
• If hookups do not exist (new water/drain/vent/electric): this is the branch that can hit $650–$2,500+.

Range hood: why does it get expensive?

• The hood unit can be affordable; the expensive part is ducting to exterior and patching.
• Venting and electrical work are the typical cost multipliers.

What “features” increase the long-term cost (downsides)?

• Wi-Fi/smart controls: more boards/sensors = more expensive failures.
• High-end built-ins: harder access, tighter tolerances, more labor for future replacements.

What “features” reduce risk (benefits)?

• Leak protection (dishwashers/laundry): reduces catastrophic water damage risk.
• Standard sizes and common platforms: easier fitment and faster part sourcing later.

Quick rule: when replacement beats repair

• Replacement wins when parts are discontinued/NLA, sealed-system leaks exist, or repeat failures keep happening.
• Repair wins when the failure is bounded (pump/valve/igniter/fan) and replacement triggers cabinetry/utility work.

Appliance replacement fee in NYC (average “all-in”)

• Most people pay (new appliance price) + 8.875% NYC sales tax + delivery/haul-away + installation labor + small parts/accessories. (NYC311)
• NYC sales tax is 8.875% on most retail product purchases (the appliance itself). (NYC311)
• Installation charges and what’s taxable can vary by how the job is billed and installed (retailer vs contractor, real-property vs “tangible personal property” treatment). If taxes matter, read the invoice line-by-line or ask the seller how they apply NY sales tax. (NY Taxation and Finance)

Typical “hidden” line items (that move the price fast)

• Haul-away / disposal: commonly $100–$250 for heavy appliances (stairs cost extra). (Angi)
• Basic installation labor: often ~$100–$300 when hookups already exist (varies by appliance and market). (HomeGuide)
• Complex installs / modifications: can jump to $650–$2,500+ when ductwork, new circuits, plumbing changes, or cabinetry cuts are required. (Angi)

Average installed totals by appliance type (NYC-style budgeting)

Dishwasher (standard 24" built-in)

• Appliance price (avg range): roughly $500–$1,000+ (budget → midrange; premium higher). (Reviewed)
• Install labor (typical): plumbers/electricians often $75–$150/hr; totals depend on layout and upgrades. (Angi)
• Example midrange “all-in”:
  • $900 dishwasher + $79.88 tax + $350 install + $150 haul-away + $40 parts ≈ $1,519.88 (example, not a quote). (NYC311)
• Big cost drivers: new shutoff valve, non-standard drain routing, hardwired electrical changes, water damage remediation.

Refrigerator (freestanding)

• Appliance price tiers: about $500–$1,000 (budget), $1,000–$2,000 (mid), $2,000–$4,000 (premium), $5,000+ (built-in/luxury). (Reviewed)
• Installation reality: basic “swap” is cheaper; water/ice line work and tight cabinetry are what spike labor.
• Example midrange “all-in”:
  • $1,800 fridge + $159.75 tax + $200 install + $120 waterline work + $200 haul-away ≈ $2,479.75. (NYC311)
• Negative side (common): built-ins/panel-ready can require multiple visits, custom panels, or cabinet adjustment (cost and risk go up).

Range (slide-in or freestanding)

• Appliance price range: about $500 to ~$7,000 depending on type and brand tier. (Consumer Reports)
• Install labor: basic installs can be a few hundred; gas conversions/line work and 240V changes add cost. (Yale Appliance Blog)
• Example “all-in” (gas range scenario):
  • $1,200 range + $106.50 tax + $300 install + $250 gas-related labor + $150 haul-away ≈ $2,006.50. (NYC311)

Washer + dryer (existing hookups)

• Unit price (sets): solid pairs can be ~$875 to ~$3,000 depending on capacity/features. (Consumer Reports)
• Install labor (if hookups exist): commonly $100–$300 for labor alone; new hookups are the expensive branch. (HomeGuide)
• Example “all-in” (existing hookups):
  • $1,500 set + $133.12 tax + $300 install + $40 vent kit + $200 haul-away ≈ $2,173.12. (NYC311)
• High-cost trigger: adding hookups where none existed often $650–$2,500. (Angi)

Over-the-range microwave

• Install cost: often $250–$1,200 depending on venting and electrical needs; a dedicated circuit can be a major add-on. (Angi)
• Appliance price: commonly a few hundred; premium models can exceed $1,000. (Consumer Reports)

Range hood

• Unit price (typical): often $100–$600 for many residential hoods (higher for premium). (HomeGuide)
• Install cost: commonly $650–$2,500 when ducting/electrical is involved (average cited around $1,750). (Angi)
• Big cost driver: new duct run to exterior (time + openings + patching).

Features: benefits and negative sides (what changes the “real” cost of ownership)

Smart/Wi-Fi features

• Benefits: alerts, diagnostics, remote monitoring, sometimes better serviceability.
• Negative sides: more boards/sensors = more failure points; app support can sunset; repairs can be pricier.

Induction vs gas cooking

• Induction benefits: fast, efficient, less kitchen heat; often lower operating energy than standard electric. (Reviewed)
• Induction negatives: cookware compatibility; electronics are sensitive to power quality; repairs can be board-heavy.
• Gas benefits: familiar flame control, works with any cookware.
• Gas negatives: combustion byproducts make ventilation quality more important; line work/permits/building rules can complicate installs.

Ventless / heat-pump drying (vs vented)

• Benefits: no exterior vent required (great for many apartments); typically gentler on clothes.
• Negative sides: longer cycles; maintenance is more strict (filters/condensation path); higher upfront cost.

Leak protection (dishwashers, some laundry)

• Benefits: reduces catastrophic leaks.
• Negative sides: nuisance shutoffs if the base pan gets moisture; troubleshooting can be more “sensor logic” than mechanical.

Built-in / panel-ready appliances

• Benefits: clean look, often better fit/finish, sometimes better airflow design.
• Negative sides: install labor is higher, access is harder, cabinetry tolerances are tight, and replacement later can become a “remodel-lite.”

Replacement vs repair: quick decision rules

When replacement is usually the smarter spend

• Repeated failures plus downtime costs you more than the appliance’s remaining value.
• Critical parts are discontinued / unavailable (common on older units).
• Rusted tubs, structural cabinet damage, sealed-system leaks, or safety issues.

When repair is usually smarter

• Single, bounded failure (pump, valve, igniter, fan) and the appliance is otherwise stable.
• The unit is a built-in/panel-ready where replacement triggers carpentry or fitment risk.